Friday, September 25, 2009

So long, Suphan!

Things have been quiet on this blog lately and there’s a good reason for it. You might be thinking I’ve had a lot of work to finish up at school, with finals and grading and getting things ready for the new teachers (even though I’m feeling possessive and territorial and want to scratch my name into my desk so they know I was here first). And I’ve had all those things to do, but I’ve also had a lot (so very much) free time at school that finding time to do it all wasn’t much of a problem. I’ve been busy with something else.

I’m planning a kidnapping.

Just go with me on this. It might seem dramatic and ridiculous and, yes, technically illegal, but that’s only because I haven’t explained the situation. You see, I’ve been considering something like this for a while. Thailand has a lot of babies and they are all adorable. They wear little bracelets and anklets with bells on them and baby powder on their faces and arms and they are either amazingly tiny or super chubby. So, I’d always assumed that when the time came, I’d be taking a baby back home with me. But recently, my plans have changed.

I have a handful of favorite students that I love, but none of them had really risen above the others to claim the cherished spot of “The Favorite”. Then, a few weeks ago, one of my M1’s started to show some promise, but she did it so quietly that I didn’t even realize it at first. She started by waiting outside the office to carry my things to class. This is something a few of my students have been doing for a while, but she took it a step further when she started carrying my stuff to other classes. Whenever her schedule seemed to allow it or she saw me walking to a class, she’d split off from her friends, cheerfully take everything out of my hands, and escort me to wherever I was going. We’d talk as much as her very limited English would allow and then she’d leave me with a wave and a nervous giggle. She was one of the students who gave me a learner’s English book for a before-birthday present. The presents didn’t stop there. This whole week, my last week at school, she stopped by periodically to gift me with key chains (Hello Kitty and Winnie the Pooh), sandwiches, and bottles of water. Clearly this was her way of overcoming the language barrier to show me that she can’t bear to parted from me.

So you see, she wants to come with me, even if she doesn't know it yet.

I’m giving her a few weeks to say goodbye to her friends and family while I wander about Southeast Asia. This is my last night in Suphanburi and tomorrow we leave for Laos. Then it’s back to Thailand (I didn’t say I was wandering far). I don’t know what the internet situation will be, so we’ll see if I can manage any updates on my fascinating travels. But know this: when I return I will be bringing a twelve year-old Thai child with me. And possibly a baby to act as her companion.

Tuesday, September 8, 2009

It was almost like camping... except it wasn't at all

The number of weekends we have to romp around Thailand is quickly decreasing (only two more before post-semester traveling) and we've been trying to fit in as much as possible. Two weeks ago our plan to go back to Kanchanaburi was foiled; first, by lame Thai bus schedules and then by our lack of desire to get up at six on a Saturday morning. We tried again last weekend and managed to make it to the bus station just in time to hear "Hurry, farang! Kanchanaburi, five minutes!" Of course, once we ran to the bus and sat down, we realized that five minutes really meant closer to thirty. But we are neither surprised nor bothered (mostly) by these things anymore and were just happy to have made the bus at all.

Our only goal was to spend some time at Erawan Falls, which is the waterfall to see in Thailand. Since at times it feels like there's a waterfall on every corner in this country (though maybe not in Suphan, which leans more to the dirt, construction, and overgrown fields of death side of the scenery spectrum), it's no small thing to say that Erawan is one of the best. It has seven-tiers, most with pools to swim in, things to climb, and giant rocks to slide down. We spent most of the day playing in our natural playground and taking more pictures of water and rocks and water on rocks than anyone really needs. I felt like this was good practice for the next weekend, when the plan was to go to Khao Yai National Park and stay in a resort but save money by sleeping in tents. But the weekend turned out not to be quite as rustic as we'd planned.

When we called the resort to make reservations, they told us sadly that there were many conferences that weekend and there would be no room. We said we were calling about tents, not rooms, and were there any available? "Oh. Tents. Yes, we have many many tents. But are you sure...?" We were sure.

We quickly found out why there were so many tents free. Khao Yai isn't far from Suphan, not even three hours, but it seems that it's far enough away for the weather to change. And by that, I mean there actually is some. The rainy season isn't just a rumor to fool silly farang. The minute we stepped out of the taxi, we were immediately informed by the overly concerned manager (who we very quickly dubbed Mom) that it had rained every night for a week and the tents weren't waterproof. Well, you know me and my deep love for grass and bugs, so I was pretty bummed that we'd be missing out. But my mood brightened when Thai Mom told us that there were rooms available and they turned out to be excellent, by far the best I've stayed in here. Not to mention, they were only 500 baht a person. My love for low season prices is true and pure.

I am happy to report that the best word to describe the weekend is "classy". Compared to everywhere else I've stayed (including, at times, Suphan), the resort was luxurious. There was air conditioning and good food and a pool and a nice bathroom and never once did I say "That's an unfortunate smell..."

And the luxury didn't stop there. Much to our surprise, we discovered that Thailand makes wine. And guess what? Their biggest and best is in Khao Yai. So the only thing to do was go on a tour of the winery and have a wine tasting.

I told you, classy.

So that was my weekend. Wine, excellent food, and luxury.

In current news, here are some things that happened to me today:

1. Filled out three "profiles" about myself on intricately decorated paper, including my birthday, address, phone number, and "how/why I am so beautiful". This isn't unusual, but it's happening more often. I think the students are starting to catch on that I'm leaving.

2. Signed four autographs. I'd say I just signed my name, but there's no point denying it. They're autographs.

3. Received two beautifully wrapped "before-birthday" presents. Thanks to profiles I've filled out previously, a lot of the students know my birthday. I'm not sure if they know that I'm leaving and wanted to give me something before I go, or if they just wanted an excuse to give me something. For those who are interested, the presents were two books, both in English – simplified learning English versions of "The Woman in White" and "The Call of the Wild". Like most things that happen to me in Thailand, I was confused but delighted. The students (and their friends) also sang "Happy Birthday".

4. Found out that on the last two days of classes next week, seven out of eight of mine are canceled. This brings me from five classes to one on Thursday and none on Friday. They tried to tell me that I still had to come to school on Friday, but I refused. I'm already spending the entire week after that doing nothing in the office. I can't add another day on top of it. Also, I managed to completely shock the head of my department when I heard her talking in Thai about the 17th and 18th and then (since the canceled classes rumor had been floating around) asked whether there would be school on those days.

Kanchana (to another teacher): Thai, Thai, sip jet (17), sip baad (18). Thai, sip jet, sip baad. Thai, Thai, Thai.
Me (knows what their talking about and waits to see if anyone thinks that I too should be informed. No one does.): Are you talking about classes on the 17th and 18th? Are they canceled?
Kanchana (stares, obviously shocked that I understood any of what she said): How...?
Me: I can also pat my head and rub my stomach at the same time.
Kanchana: What?
Me: Nevermind.

I think a year from now, I won't believe things like this actually happened to me regularly.