Monday, October 12, 2009

Wait, I'm going home?

Right now, I'm sitting in the Bangkok airport being mad at the internet. I'm here early, so early that I gave in and shelled out some baht for an hour of wireless, which I now find only connects to some sites. This must be a sign that I should a)post my final blog or b) continue that mostly internet-free existence I've been living while traveling.

Clearly, it's not option b.

I didn't plan on being at the airport quite so early. I left Ko Chang this morning (9:30) and got into Bangkok at 6, which is a full day of traveling already. The airport was not on my top list of places to be. My flight is at 5:30 am (because why should it be convenient?) and that left a decent amount of time to eat, shower, get some last minute present, and then go get my bags from storage. The eating was definitely a success (I'll miss you cheap, cheap food) and the shower less so (I knew that packet was conditioner and not shampoo. Damn you Thai Man at 7-11 Counter!). I had some kind of blackout on Khao San Road and when I came to I had two more bags of stuff. How? Why?

I sat down and had a fruit shake to recover from my medical episode. After, I felt rested, but I realized I couldn't stand to be in Bangkok for one more minute. The smells were particularly awful, I was tired from the bus trip, and it was just time to go. Bangkok is fun for a little while, if I have things to do, but I can only kill so much time here (especially on Khao San) before I feel like I'm about to twitch out of my skin. It might be a side effect of all the pollution. Actually, maybe that explains my shopping blackout...

So now, after a touch-and-go repacking of my bags after I got them from storage (I'm carrying an odd variety of things onto the plane with me, but somehow I managed to fit it all in) I'm still in Bangkok, but it's the airport and that doesn't really count. The downside of course it that it's four hours before my flight leaves and I can't check my bags in yet so I can't even go to the bathroom. And I will not leave them with a kind-looking stranger. I refuse to get anything stolen this late in game, especially after that near-disaster of packing.

From what I can tell, it's a bit of a tradition to write about the things I'll miss about Thailand (or won't miss) and what I'm looking forward to at home. But my (useless) internet minutes are winding down and I figure I can just tell you in person, so I quickly hit the highlights.

Miss:

Thai food - I know, I can get that at home, but I have my doubts about quality. And paying ten bucks for a meal that I used to buy for 80 cents is bound to result in some kind of stress-induced heart attack.

Bargaining - It's like eating a big meal after you've exercised. You really feel like you earned it.

Miss: The king. He is all that is caring and wonderful. What will I do when I can't walk into any random room and see is benevolent face?

Not Miss:

The Staring - After a while it wasn't that bad, but I never completely got used to it.

Bargaining - Sometimes it really is too much work. But principle demands that you don't let them get away with blatant overcharging.

Farang Prices - A lot of places (like zoos, museums, national parks) charge foreigners more, sometimes a lot more. In theory, my work permit was supposed to save me from most of that injustice. In reality, I forgot to bring it. Every. Single. Time.

Looking Forward To:

Cheese
Beef
Seasons
Not having to dress based on what clothing shows sweat the least

Not Looking Forward To:

American accents - I'm sorry, but it's true. There are very very few Americans in Thailand. 98% of all the American accents I was exposed to were my friends who I saw every day. Katie P. and I realized this a couple days ago, listening to the loud, carrying, overpowering voice of a fellow American: we should apologize to all non-Americans because it turns out they're not lying about it being annoying.

The Dollar - I think I just won't buy anything ever again.

Not going on vacation every weekend - You mean most people don't do this? What kind of life is that?

I had more, but time is out. See you in America!


P.S: Apparently, the internet decided as I was writing that it didn't like this site either. So this was posted in The Land of Internet Freedom (aka America).

P.P.S: After months of Thai beds, which have the give of wood floors, my bed feels like it's made of clouds and cotton balls.

Saturday, October 10, 2009

Ko "It Waited Until My Last Four Days In Thailand To Rain"

I never thought that at any point while in Thailand I would wish for sun, but we arrived at Ko Chang yesterday for our last days and haven't seen the sun since. I was hoping to step off the plane in (I can't believe it) four days and be jet lagged, dirty, delirious, and gloriously sun-bronzed. My super-tan of July faded long ago and I wanted the chance to gain a little of it back, just enough to last me through October. But I'm worn out from traveling and tanning regrets aside, can't be too disappointed about the rain. As long as I have a book thick enough to last me (and I think the one I have will last all the way to the States) I have no real complaints. If given the choice, though, I would have switched the weather in Chiang Mai and Ko Chang.

Chiang Mai was hot. You would think I'd be used to it but apparently four days in the mountains in Pai were all it took for me to adjust back to normal temperatures (normal being 80 degrees). Unwilling to expose our tired, travel-worn selves to more discomfort, we kept our activities low-key during the first day (reading in the park, napping, Starbucks) and then re-energized for our Thai cooking class. It turns out I have found my cooking niche. I don't have the patience, inclination, or attention span for the usual stuff, but apparently I have a knack for Thai food. I realized that while I could get various people to cook my favorite foods for me at home there was no one who could make Thai food for me. So I stuck out my chin, donned my apron and headscarf, and got to it. I learned all of my favorites (my green curry in particular was excellent), impressed our teacher by making everything Thai-level spicy, and finally found out which is the mortar and which is the pestle (one of my top five questions about Thailand).

One morning was devoted to The Flight of the Gibbon, which is the attraction in Chiang Mai (as seen on Amazing Race). A gibbon is a monkey that swings from tree to tree and almost never touches the ground and The Flight is a series of zip-lines through the rainforest where they live. Our guides enjoyed sending us off the platforms before we were ready and, at one time, "missing" someone in my group at the other end so he slid back to the middle. Oh, North and Chit, they were a couple of jokesters. In our group was an Israeli family and they were so awesome that, in two hours, they made me want to convert to Judaism and move to Israel. I still haven't completely dismissed it.

There were more animal related events, including the Night Safari where I held a baby white tiger (it was ferocious), realized that the bird house is frightening in the dark, and got cut off by a roaming giraffe while riding the tram. Our last day was spent at the zoo, where we had to stop every twenty minutes to rest because it was hot and we are getting on in years. But I got to feed a giraffe (a different one) and see what an ostrich looks when it's molted (answer: ewww).

I also went to some markets and spent an upsetting amount of money (baht or no baht, I am on a teacher's salary). Mostly it was upsetting for my back, which now has to carry everything I bought. It also might be upsetting for my suitcase when I get my things out of storage and pack for the plane, but I remain hopeful.

But that is three days away, so I won't worry about it. For now, it's still raining but I'm getting restless and so I think I will go swimming anyway. Thanks to a tropical climate, the water is always warm. Well done, Thailand.

Friday, October 2, 2009

Done With Kip, Back To Baht.

I'm not sure how it happened, but it's already been a week since I left Suphan. It was a sad good-bye, but I have Jenny and Katie P. as my traveling companions and we're meeting up with a couple others for the final beaching part of the trip, so I got to put off most of my final farewells for a couple weeks. I've been trying to convince everyone to come home with me and live in the basement (Mom and Dad, we'll talk later), but they keep saying things like "crime" and "drugs" and "don't a lot of people get shot there?". I'm kind of disappointed in them, I thought they were hardier than that.

So I suppose I'll just have to cling to what little time we have left. We've definitely been making the most of it. Our first destination was Laos and, sadly, we had to race through it. We spent a couple days in Vang Vieng and our main activity was Tubing. This wasn't regular tubing and so deserves capitalization. There are a bunch of bars lined up along the (big, fast moving, rock-laden) river. You rent a tube and float from bar to bar where they throw you line, reel you in and ply you with free whiskey. There are zip lines and high swings (I was the only one to do the high swing because I am the coolest and most fearless of us all) and an underlying sense of danger. We managed to make it through relatively unwounded.

If you think the Tubing was exciting, wait until you hear about how we spent our nights. Restaurants and bars in Laos are all centered around one thing - television. And the only shows on are Friends, Family Guy, and occasionally soccer. So it turns out I found my heaven, and it happens to be in a tiny developing country in Southeast Asia. Who knew? Because we spent a lot of our time in Laos traveling, watching t.v. and drinking fruit shakes was as much activity as we could handle. At first we disagreed on where to go ("I want to watch Friends", "But I feel like Family Guy", "Look, soccer!) but we quickly came up with an excellent solution. So we spent the nights bar-hopping from show to show, ordering shakes and baguettes and cheese at each one (Laos was lucky enough to be colonized by the French and, though it's independent now, we can still enjoy the culinary heritage).

After Vang Vieng, we spent a day in Luang Prabang, which was quaint and had equally delicious food, and then it was time to head back to Thailand. I would have liked to spend at least a few more days in Laos, but I was also a little relieved to be back. I was very much a tourist in Laos and, while I had a great time, it was a little unsettling. In Thailand I don't have to worry about converting money (I never got a handle on the Laos Kip), basic communication, or getting scammed. Not to mention, Thailand is still the cheapest country ever.

So now I'm in Pai, a tiny little town in the northwest. Everything about Pai is relaxed and slightly New-Agey. I didn't think it was possible for people in Thailand to be friendlier, but the people in Pai have managed it. We spent a day white water rafting and cliff jumping. The cliffs weren't too high, only about 8 meters (which, thanks to my American education I know is somewhere between 10 and 50 feet) but high enough that even I, with all of my daring and fearlessness, hesitated. It was my first time rafting, but I think I carried my weight. I suppose I'm just a natural at everything I do.

We have one more day here and then we leave tomorrow for a few days in Chiang Mai. We don't have any particular plans, so I expect we'll just do whatever catches our attention. Probably something shiny and sparkly. For now I'm going to read my book, drink coffee, and count how many people with dreads walk by.

Friday, September 25, 2009

So long, Suphan!

Things have been quiet on this blog lately and there’s a good reason for it. You might be thinking I’ve had a lot of work to finish up at school, with finals and grading and getting things ready for the new teachers (even though I’m feeling possessive and territorial and want to scratch my name into my desk so they know I was here first). And I’ve had all those things to do, but I’ve also had a lot (so very much) free time at school that finding time to do it all wasn’t much of a problem. I’ve been busy with something else.

I’m planning a kidnapping.

Just go with me on this. It might seem dramatic and ridiculous and, yes, technically illegal, but that’s only because I haven’t explained the situation. You see, I’ve been considering something like this for a while. Thailand has a lot of babies and they are all adorable. They wear little bracelets and anklets with bells on them and baby powder on their faces and arms and they are either amazingly tiny or super chubby. So, I’d always assumed that when the time came, I’d be taking a baby back home with me. But recently, my plans have changed.

I have a handful of favorite students that I love, but none of them had really risen above the others to claim the cherished spot of “The Favorite”. Then, a few weeks ago, one of my M1’s started to show some promise, but she did it so quietly that I didn’t even realize it at first. She started by waiting outside the office to carry my things to class. This is something a few of my students have been doing for a while, but she took it a step further when she started carrying my stuff to other classes. Whenever her schedule seemed to allow it or she saw me walking to a class, she’d split off from her friends, cheerfully take everything out of my hands, and escort me to wherever I was going. We’d talk as much as her very limited English would allow and then she’d leave me with a wave and a nervous giggle. She was one of the students who gave me a learner’s English book for a before-birthday present. The presents didn’t stop there. This whole week, my last week at school, she stopped by periodically to gift me with key chains (Hello Kitty and Winnie the Pooh), sandwiches, and bottles of water. Clearly this was her way of overcoming the language barrier to show me that she can’t bear to parted from me.

So you see, she wants to come with me, even if she doesn't know it yet.

I’m giving her a few weeks to say goodbye to her friends and family while I wander about Southeast Asia. This is my last night in Suphanburi and tomorrow we leave for Laos. Then it’s back to Thailand (I didn’t say I was wandering far). I don’t know what the internet situation will be, so we’ll see if I can manage any updates on my fascinating travels. But know this: when I return I will be bringing a twelve year-old Thai child with me. And possibly a baby to act as her companion.

Tuesday, September 8, 2009

It was almost like camping... except it wasn't at all

The number of weekends we have to romp around Thailand is quickly decreasing (only two more before post-semester traveling) and we've been trying to fit in as much as possible. Two weeks ago our plan to go back to Kanchanaburi was foiled; first, by lame Thai bus schedules and then by our lack of desire to get up at six on a Saturday morning. We tried again last weekend and managed to make it to the bus station just in time to hear "Hurry, farang! Kanchanaburi, five minutes!" Of course, once we ran to the bus and sat down, we realized that five minutes really meant closer to thirty. But we are neither surprised nor bothered (mostly) by these things anymore and were just happy to have made the bus at all.

Our only goal was to spend some time at Erawan Falls, which is the waterfall to see in Thailand. Since at times it feels like there's a waterfall on every corner in this country (though maybe not in Suphan, which leans more to the dirt, construction, and overgrown fields of death side of the scenery spectrum), it's no small thing to say that Erawan is one of the best. It has seven-tiers, most with pools to swim in, things to climb, and giant rocks to slide down. We spent most of the day playing in our natural playground and taking more pictures of water and rocks and water on rocks than anyone really needs. I felt like this was good practice for the next weekend, when the plan was to go to Khao Yai National Park and stay in a resort but save money by sleeping in tents. But the weekend turned out not to be quite as rustic as we'd planned.

When we called the resort to make reservations, they told us sadly that there were many conferences that weekend and there would be no room. We said we were calling about tents, not rooms, and were there any available? "Oh. Tents. Yes, we have many many tents. But are you sure...?" We were sure.

We quickly found out why there were so many tents free. Khao Yai isn't far from Suphan, not even three hours, but it seems that it's far enough away for the weather to change. And by that, I mean there actually is some. The rainy season isn't just a rumor to fool silly farang. The minute we stepped out of the taxi, we were immediately informed by the overly concerned manager (who we very quickly dubbed Mom) that it had rained every night for a week and the tents weren't waterproof. Well, you know me and my deep love for grass and bugs, so I was pretty bummed that we'd be missing out. But my mood brightened when Thai Mom told us that there were rooms available and they turned out to be excellent, by far the best I've stayed in here. Not to mention, they were only 500 baht a person. My love for low season prices is true and pure.

I am happy to report that the best word to describe the weekend is "classy". Compared to everywhere else I've stayed (including, at times, Suphan), the resort was luxurious. There was air conditioning and good food and a pool and a nice bathroom and never once did I say "That's an unfortunate smell..."

And the luxury didn't stop there. Much to our surprise, we discovered that Thailand makes wine. And guess what? Their biggest and best is in Khao Yai. So the only thing to do was go on a tour of the winery and have a wine tasting.

I told you, classy.

So that was my weekend. Wine, excellent food, and luxury.

In current news, here are some things that happened to me today:

1. Filled out three "profiles" about myself on intricately decorated paper, including my birthday, address, phone number, and "how/why I am so beautiful". This isn't unusual, but it's happening more often. I think the students are starting to catch on that I'm leaving.

2. Signed four autographs. I'd say I just signed my name, but there's no point denying it. They're autographs.

3. Received two beautifully wrapped "before-birthday" presents. Thanks to profiles I've filled out previously, a lot of the students know my birthday. I'm not sure if they know that I'm leaving and wanted to give me something before I go, or if they just wanted an excuse to give me something. For those who are interested, the presents were two books, both in English – simplified learning English versions of "The Woman in White" and "The Call of the Wild". Like most things that happen to me in Thailand, I was confused but delighted. The students (and their friends) also sang "Happy Birthday".

4. Found out that on the last two days of classes next week, seven out of eight of mine are canceled. This brings me from five classes to one on Thursday and none on Friday. They tried to tell me that I still had to come to school on Friday, but I refused. I'm already spending the entire week after that doing nothing in the office. I can't add another day on top of it. Also, I managed to completely shock the head of my department when I heard her talking in Thai about the 17th and 18th and then (since the canceled classes rumor had been floating around) asked whether there would be school on those days.

Kanchana (to another teacher): Thai, Thai, sip jet (17), sip baad (18). Thai, sip jet, sip baad. Thai, Thai, Thai.
Me (knows what their talking about and waits to see if anyone thinks that I too should be informed. No one does.): Are you talking about classes on the 17th and 18th? Are they canceled?
Kanchana (stares, obviously shocked that I understood any of what she said): How...?
Me: I can also pat my head and rub my stomach at the same time.
Kanchana: What?
Me: Nevermind.

I think a year from now, I won't believe things like this actually happened to me regularly.

Sunday, August 23, 2009

You can feed the farang, but if you point she gets agitated

About two minutes ago, I heard an unusual amount of noise in the hallway and looked up to see a large group of people videotaping things and being led on what appears to be a tour. Naturally, I was curious.

Me: What's going on?
Pi-Dee: They are teachers visiting from another school. Look, they're waving at you!
Me (turns around and sure enough): Oh. Hello.
Pi-Dee: Wave back!
Me (sighs and waves): Hi. Hello. Yes, hello to you in the back. You can really come closer. (Teachers gesture enthusiastically to their skin and then mine.) Yes, I am white. You don't need to point... and there's the video camera.

So now I'm writing this and pretending to be busy, since before all I was doing was eating Wheat-Thins (courtesy of Mom). They're starting to disperse now that I'm not paying any attention to them, but I bet the tour guide is saying something like this: "So, you noticed that in addition to the new computers in the science rooms, the school has also acquired a farang. She doesn't always understand what's going on, but if you want to practice shaking hands, she's the one to go to."

Sometimes things like this bug me and sometimes they make me laugh. Since I had a chance to recharge over the weekend, it's mostly the latter. Even though we did fail miserably at going to Kanchanaburi. After school on Friday, we headed to the bus station only to be told that we had missed the last direct bus. We were sad, but not too surprised since the bus schedule is kind of hit or miss. They tried to put us on a bus to Nakhon Pathom, where we could catch a different bus to Kanchanaburi, but since that would put us two hours in the complete opposite direction we decided to leave early the next morning.

Except we didn't. We mostly meant to, but our beds were so comfy and the buses are not. So it was another quiet pool weekend, which really was just fine. We'll try again this weekend.

And now to my last class of the day. I love being done by one on Mondays. It makes starting the week a little bit easier.

Monday, August 17, 2009

Cloudy skies do not weather make

I miss weather. Specifically, I miss weather that isn’t hot, but at this point I’ll take anything. And storms that happen at two in the morning when I’m asleep don’t count. The last couple of weeks have been some of the hottest so far and – to the degree – this next week isn’t supposed to change. I thought living here during the rainy season would mean cooler weather and, you know, rain. I’ve decided the plants get all their water from the humid (oh so humid) air, because it’s not coming from anywhere else.

We can’t blast the a/c since we pay our own electricity and we get paid in baht, so we escape the heat by going to the pool or, to repeat a favorite, head to the beach for the weekend. There are so many beaches around, we have yet to go to the same one twice and this past weekend it was Ko Si Chang. There isn’t much going on there, which ended up being exactly what we needed. Falling asleep at 10:30 on a Saturday is it’s own kind of fun. We’re all a little burnt out from teaching and we really needed to do nothing. The beach itself wasn’t great, probably the worst I’ve been to so far. But remember that a mediocre Thailand beach is still pretty great and it was the best beach weather we’ve had so far. In the end, I only need sand, ocean, and decently clear skies to have a good beach day. Well, that and a bathing suit, which I somehow forgot to bring. A bra is almost like bathing suit anyway. And since I was also wearing shorts, the Thais (who swim in their clothes) would say I was the most appropriately dressed out of us all.

We're planning out the rest of our weekends (we don't have many left) and starting on our post-semester traveling plans. There are so many places I want to go and I just don't have enough time. Sometimes I want to stay for another semester, but I actually (for the first time ever) have a plan for the next few years and I want to get started on it. I'll just have to fit as much as I can in the next two months. This weekend it's back to Kanchanaburi, home of the Scary Bugs, to see the things we missed out on last time. I've decided I'd like to see more of fewer places than skim through as many places as I can cram in. Hopefully this time I'll see more scenery and less local wildlife.